MONTGOMERY LIFESTYLES  Fall 1999

During the past decade or so, “Mexican” restaurants have become almost as ubiquitous as pizza parlors in most of America.  I recently heard a Chinese- American writer of a Chinese cookbook voice a concern that the next generation of her family would probably be eating fajitas for Chinese New Year’s. 

Like those (chow mein-filled?) fajitas, a lot of what is served in Mexican restaurants in this country has little in common with the exciting and hugely varied dishes typically consumed in Mexico.  Nonetheless, the results of cross-cultural mixing often have a charm of their own and this is certainly true of the cooking which has grown out of the two-way commerce across the Rio Grande.

Before I ever went there, I admired the name of the Tex-Mex Connection in North Wales because of the clear implication that this was a restaurant dedicated to exploring the possibilities generated by combining Mexican and gringo cooking traditions.

And the name also suggests a place that would be informal, unpretentious and focused on casual fun.  So, When we decided to give Tex-Mex a try we hoped for no pretense of “authentic Mexican cuisine,” just some fun food., and just possibly, a decent margarita. 

We got what we hoped for and than some.

Because we expected a casual sort of place, I made no reservation.  As we were leaving I reviewed an advertisement to double-check the restaurant’s location and noted the line “reservations accepted.”  I called immediately and asked if there was a reservation available within the next half hour (it was about 6 p.m.) and was told the next available reservation would be for 8:30.  However, the voice on the phone continued, there are some tables set aside for first-come-first-served.

We decided to chance it and were seated immediately upon our arrival.  The restaurant, painted in unmistakable bright colors on the exterior, is divided inside into three sections.  Upstairs is a set of rooms set up as a relatively formal dining area.  Downstairs there is a less formal dining area called the “cantina,” and a large bar area with circular bar and few tables also available for diners.

All is decorated much as one would expect in a casual, Mexican-influenced, corner of the American Southwest.  There are none of the sombreros or serapes which chain restaurant decorators seem to think establish a Mexican atmosphere.

There are, I’m pleased to report, margaritas.  The menu lists an almost bewildering assortment of margarita options – on the rocks, frozen, with various fruit combinations, and in three grades of tequila choices.  Wynne and I started off with a traditional, medium grade, margarita and were delighted to be a served a drink that actually tasted of tequila, triple sec and lime juice.  Some things ought not to be messed with.

Later we tried one of the frozen, mango, margarita concoctions.  Nice enough as a dessert- but nothing like the real thing. 

To go with our drinks, we ordered two appetizers, chile con queso and a smoked chicken and red peeper quesadilla.  Bother were exceptional.  The chile con queso ($4.50) came with good, very crisp, tortilla chips and was a large portion of melted cheese flavored with slightly hot red peppers. 

The quesadilla ($4.75), layers of soft, fresh flour tortillas with cheese, chicken and peppers was equally tasty, though not so spicy, and was served with a very nice pico de gallo (fresh chopped tomato, onion, and herbs) on the side.  An extra hot five pepper sauce is also available.

For my main course, I went with a tried and true combination, a black bean and cheese burrito and a shredded beef and cheese enchilada ($9.95).  Wynne wisely decided to try something a little less expected in your average Mexican restaurant, southwest crab imperial ($17.95).  It still sounds a little strange to me, but I tried it and had to agree it was excellent.  Good quality crab meat combined with crispy chunks of red bell pepper and other flavorings, all served with tasty tortillas.  Mexico meets the Chesapeake?

Looking over the menu I took away with me. I note there are lots of dishes I may want to try on my future visits (and there will be future visits).  If I’m in a nouvelle cuisine sort of mood, I may sample the shrimp glazed with margarita and served with mango relish over cappelini ($14.95).  On the other hand, I may try the “Tex” part of the menu and sample the mixed barbecue ($19.95) or “Rio Grande Red” chile with cornbread ($9.95).

As a special bonus, we were treated to the music of a fine blues band who began to perform toward the end of our meal.  There is music every Saturday night, and it did seem that the bar was filling up with “regulars” by 8 p.m.  I can see why: what nicer night out could you want than good margaritas and a good band in a friendly atmosphere?

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